In June 1985, two British mountaineers Joe Simpson and Simon Yates made
the first-ever climb of the West Face of the 21,000 foot snow-covered
Siula Grande mountain in Peru. It was an exceptionally tough assault -
but nothing compared to what was to come. Early in the descent, Simpson
fell and smashed his right knee. Yates could have abandoned him but
managed to find a way of lowering him down the mountain in a series of
difficult drops blinded by snow and cold. Then Simpson fell into a
crevasse and Yates eventually had no choice but to cut the rope, utterly
convinced that his friend was now dead.
In his subsequent book on the climb entitled "Touching The Void", Joe Simpson wrote:
"As I gazed at the distant moraines, I knew that I must at least try.
I would probably die out there amid those boulders. The thought didn't
alarm me. It seemed reasonable, matter-of-fact. That was how it was. I
could aim for something. If I died, well, that wasn't so surprising, but
I wouldn't have just waited for it to happen. The horror of dying no
longer affected me as it had in the crevasse. I now had the chance to
confront it and struggle against it. It wasn't a bleak dark terror any
more, just fact, like my broken leg and frostbitten fingers, and I
couldn't be afraid of things like that. My leg would hurt when I fell
and when I couldn't get up I would die."
The survival of Yates himself was extraordinary. That Simpson somehow
found a way of climbing out of the crevasse after 12 hours and then
literally crawled and dragged himself six miles back to camp, going
three days and nights without food or drink, losing three stone, and
contracting ketoacidosis in the process, would be the stuff of heroic
fiction if it was not so true. Indeed, six operations and two years
later, he was even back climbing. All because, against all the odds, he
tried ...
Source: "Touching The Void" by Joe Simpson
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